48 hours in Riga

Normally, I would travel to the Baltics in the spring/summer weather but I had a deadline to meet and Latvia was last on my EU list…so here we are. It is 0 to -1C during the day and drops to -1 to -3C at night-Super.

But despite the freezing temperatures, Riga is delightfully charming. As it was my first time to Riga, I chose my hotel from booking.com to narrow results from price, location, cuteness, etc… I chose Semarah Metropole Hotel and boy was I pleased when I arrived! You never know how the websites portray a hotel as compared to real life but this one was just superb. I took a taxi from the airport (about 20 euro) mainly because my flight landed in Riga after 10pm and I was not in the mindset to figure out the bus system. However, my hotel was right next to the bus station, tram station, whatever public transport station so the travel back to the airport will be via this method…and for one euro!

When I asked the receptionist what I should see in Riga, her immediate response was “You haven’t been to Riga until you see the Freedom Monument.” 2017-01-28-12-39-33The people of Latvia have a strong sense of pride when talking about their independence. This monument was erected to honor those who fell in order to provide independence and freedom as well as to symbolize national unity. Located around the edge of the old town, it is quite arguably the most impressive landmark of the city.

I absolutely loved walking around Riga. Loved it. However, I am quite sure it is more lively with people moving around, terraces open outside and outdoor markets in the warmer seasons. But look how precious… just look!

So after I did this for four hours, I decided it was time to actually go and see something. There are several cathedrals that make up the skyline of Riga but three really spoke out to me.

St Jacob’s Church

This cathedral is one of the oldest in Riga, dating back to 1225. If you can see the top of the spire, there is a small rooster. Almost every cathedral is topped with this rooster, not a cross. There is actually a religious reason behind this; the rooster is a vigilant defender against evil and according to tradition, can drive away evil with his morning song. The rooster sits on the highest peaks of the city so its song can be heard from far away.

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Riga Cathedral

The Riga Cathedral is the oldest in Riga and one of the oldest in Latvia, dating back to 1211. I used this as a central landmark as it can be seen from anywhere and is directly in the center of the old town.

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Saint Peter’s Church

This gorgeous cathedral has seen its fare share of misfortune over the years; fires, world war destruction and other natural disasters. What is so special about this cathedral is visitors can climb to the top for a gorgeous view of Riga from 72 meters high.

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Across the street from Saint Peter’s Church is, and I am not joking, the House of Blackheads. If anyone out there shares the same obsession with dermatology as my family and me, then you’ll appreciate the humor. But it’s just the super cool building that was built for unmarried German merchants in the 14th century.

 

So what is the food like? Riga had many restaurants highlighting their fish cuisines but since it was freeze balls cold outside all I wanted was soup. I stumbled upon this precious tavern, 1221, and ordered the elk goulash soup with traditional Latvian rye bread. The local beer (on tap) tasted more like a sparkling cider. Not terrible but definitely not award worthy. For my entire meal,  I paid 10 euros. Welcome to the Baltics 🙂

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There is a also a super cute central market where you can find local fruit, souvenirs and amber items for sale. Amber is a huge export of Latvia and most of the souvenirs you can find have these little stones. I didn’t stay so long as this market is outside and well, it was just too cold!

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Riga is widely known for its cheap and lively nightlife. But if you know me and my travel lifestyle, I am not stupid and tend to take extra precautions when traveling alone 🙂 However,  I did not leave this city without getting a small taste of the nightlife. Cuba House is a little bar next to the Riga Cathedral that serves the best cocktails for super reasonable prices. They offer either live music or a super fun Cuban DJ accompanied by salsa dancing. I had a mojito (4 euros) and nachos con pollo y queso (because I can never say no to nachos) and had a great time mingling with the locals and learning some new salsa moves.

All in all, my 48 hours in Riga were very cold but insanely fantastic. This is definitely a place I want to come back when it is warmer but I can not deny it has a certain charm in the cold winter.

Steer Into the Skid: When Everything Goes Wrong

First of all, if you are one of those perfect travelers who never has anything go wrong, you can magically show up at the airport in just enough time to walk on the plane immediately, your bag shows up first on the luggage cart and you never miss a connecting flight, then change blogs immediately because this is not for you. Alternatively, if you are normal, have a short temper and tend to run late (like me) then welcome to the travel blog for you! My mission is to give you the tools to make your travel experience as easy and “enjoyable” as possible; in the not so off chance that something can wrong, I hope to shed light on best management methods because yes, any hiccup can ruin an entire holiday.

So what could go wrong? You show up at the airport, bags in hand, three hours before departure- everything you are supposed to do. Why worry? 9 times out 10, you have nothing to worry about. But let’s look at that 10% of it raining a shit storm on your vacation and what you can do to manage it.

  1. I have to thank my mother for this first one. She, my step-father and sister came to Belgium last year to spend Christmas with me in my home…just a lovely time that we will look at in another edition. On their departure from Brussels Airport, I brought them promptly to the airport three hours before the flight, they checked in online for their boarding passes, carry on bags only….what could go wrong? Since they were in international waters, Mommy dearest and her husband decided not to activate their international mobile data and why should they? We were together all the time and no need for the extra costs. At baggage security, they were each pulled from the line to have their Christmas goodies examined, piece by piece. For those of us who have short nerves, this act alone is enough to send us over the edge! Mom went one way with her bags and SF went another…neither communicating where to meet once their colonoscopy was complete. Confusion set in when mother waited for SF in one place and SF waited in another….thankfully, they are both intelligent and went to the gate separately to wait where the story ends happily ever after with mother finding SF safe and sound.  So this one is an easy one….have a meeting point if you know you are going to separate. Security can be an extremely stressful process, especially when all of your belongings get pulled out for your fellow airport passengers to judge, so remove one less stressor and set a meeting point.
  2. I can not stress the importance of having a back up plan when you arrive into a new city, especially if it’s in a new country. Story number two takes place during the same Christmas gathering, this time I’ll pick on my sister. Plan A went a little something like this: Mom and SF arrive into Brussels, Sissy in Amsterdam. On the morning of everyone’s arrival, I learned mother’s flight was 4 hours delayed and sissy was on time: engage back up plan. Originally, sissy was going to take a train from Amsterdam Airport to Antwerp where she would meet the rest of the family for a day of fun. Plan B forced my sister to think a little outside the box; I asked her to take another train from Antwerp to Gent where we would all meet. Plan B worked like a charm. While sissy was en route to Gent, I picked up the late arriving rents in Brussels and we all met together in Gent. Have a Plan B…
  3. This one has happened to me many times…and as silly as this will sound, I can guarantee it can happen to anyone! Know which airport you’re flying in and out. In Europe, most countries have a main airport and at least one smaller airport to host the low cost airlines. Don’t assume just because your travel agent or your spouse booked the same airport going into a country, he/she booked you out of the same. This could be a costly lesson to learn! I was in Norway making sales calls in the Oslo area with an early morning flight to Dublin the next morning. My distributor put me in a hotel near the airport and I settled in for a short night sleep. I was at the airport at 4AM, an hour and half before the flight, frantically searching for my 5:30AM flight to Dublin on the departure screen. But, no Ryanair flights were posted anywhere. Not a one. I googled airports in Oslo to learn there wasn’t one, not two, but THREE airports. By the time I took a taxi to the correct airport,  I was too late. The next flight out ended up being back at the original airport…so 75 euros in taxi fare, a new ticket…this lesson cost around 300 euro. Know your airports!
  4. This one is my favorite to hate: delayed / canceled flights. These set backs usually have a lovely monetary compensation, but you have to ask for it!
    1. For my European travelers, mainly in the East, we are forced to deal with a little company by the name WizzAir. They give low cost airline a whole new meaning…you may spend 9 euros on a flight but you’ll pay 50 to check a bag and it’s 50/50 your seat is actually the lavatory. I was flying to Budapest from London Luton Airport when after a three hour delay, they announced the flight was cancelled until the next morning. NIGHTMARE. Don’t get me started on the rudeness of the airline / airport staff that night. I am a Southern girl and my mama taught me to have manners but that night, I channeled my inner Yankee and made sure they all knew what I thought of their behavior. Anyway, after the painful process of getting the bag, finding out what shit hotel WizzAir offered its passengers and the time of the new flight, I decided to book another hotel that actually had walls and a bed. You do not have to take the accommodation provided by the airline but I can’t say it wasn’t offered. Now to the good part. Most EU airlines offer monetary compensation if the flight is delayed up to 4 hours or if your arrival time is 4 hours or more after its original schedule… this value can get up to 400 euro and it is all based on the flight distance. Luckily, I was able to cash in 250 euro for the inconvenience.
    2. Similiar story with a delayed flight I recently had on United Airlines. I was flying home to Louisville from Washington Dulles when another case of rude airline staff and delayed flights over three hours was frustrating me and many other passengers around me. My best advice to you, do not lose your temper on the airline staff there. THEY DO NOT CARE AND WILL NOT HELP YOU. Now, keep calm and keep track of everything that happened and how long you waited. When your nightmare is over, write a letter to the customer service department and there is where you’ll get your satisfaction. I wrote a lengthy email to CS detailing the nightmare of the UA staff and the inconvenience they put us all through, and I encouraged the passengers around me to do the same. A week later, I received an email back from the CS department with a heartfelt apology and $125 travel gift voucher valid for one year.
  5. I’ll save the best for last because this makes my skin crawl just writing about it: lost bag. Lost. Bag. If I worked in the baggage department and hated someone, this is how I would ruin their life. Not only have I had a bag been delayed getting to me (at least 5 times) but I have had a bag completely disappear, never to return again. Poof. Gone.
    1. Be sure to take a picture of your checked bag before you check it in. You’ll be surprised how your brain stops working when the empty soul of an employee at the lost luggage counter asks you to describe your bag. Two rollers or four? Black or brown? Hard or soft case? Why do I have to answer these questions you should never have lost the bag in the first place you $#&^%&$%&$$#^!
    2. Do not pack anything valuable in your checked bag. But if you have to, I would suggest investing in one of these tracker systems that actually help you pinpoint where your bag is. If the airline can’t figure it out then you can at least see if your bag is in India when it should be in Munich.
    3. Pack a change of clothes in your carry on bag in the off chance your bag is delayed a night. They provide a little bag but it contains a white shirt made for a 500 pound man, a toothbrush and toothpaste made of chalk.
    4. Do not lose your baggage claim ticket. If your bag is delayed then there really isn’t a good chance to get it back…there are forms and more forms to fill out and will only delay the process more.
    5. If you have the unfortunate luck that I had…and your bag is lost forever…you get to experience the fun of itemizing everything in your bag, giving it a value and remembering when you bought it. The airline will give you up to a certain value for the goods and only after 90 days of waiting for the inevitable bad news. Advice here…book your ticket on a credit card that offers additional insurance for lost luggage.

There are many other nightmares to endure at the airport, these are just some of my favorites. Most important, you should keep calm when dealing with hiccups in the travel process and remember the CS person you are dealing with at the time, although may not seem like it, is doing the best he/she can.